Is Retinyl Palmitate Safe? What You Should Know

What is retinyl palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is the ester of retinol (vitamin A) and palmitic acid (a common saturated fatty acid). In the skin, it is converted into retinol and then to retinoic acid, both of which are retinol compounds. Retinoic acid is the form of vitamin A in the prescription acne meds Retin-A and Accutane.

Retinyl palmitate belongs to the class of chemical compounds called retinoids. These are some of the most popular treatments for skin conditions like photoageing, wrinkles, acne, and psoriasis.

How retinyl palmitate works

Retinyl palmitate is a derivative of vitamin A that undergoes a fascinating transformation once it’s applied to your skin. It first converts into retinol and then into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. This conversion process is key to its effectiveness in skincare.

One of the primary benefits of retinyl palmitate is its ability to encourage cell turnover and boost collagen production. This can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a more youthful look. Additionally, it improves skin texture and tone by increasing cell renewal, which can also help reduce the appearance of pores.

Retinyl palmitate is also known for its antioxidant properties. It helps protect your skin from environmental stressors and damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can harm your skin cells. Moreover, it can help unclog pores and reduce the appearance of acne by preventing the formation of comedones, those pesky clogged hair follicles that can lead to breakouts.

You’ll often find retinyl palmitate in various skincare products, such as serums, creams, and body lotions, all designed to harness these benefits and improve the overall appearance of your skin.

What is retinyl palmitate used for in cosmetic products?

Retinyl palmitate is in vitamin A supplements and in treatments for dry eyes. It’s in low fat milk, where it replaces the vitamin A lost when the fat was removed.

Some of the retinyl palmitate benefits are that it’s gentler than retinol. Although there are questions about whether retinyl palmitate causes acne, it’s actually a more suitable acne treatment for those with sensitive skin. Cosmetics companies add retinyl palmitate to sunscreens to help prevent skin ageing brought on by sun exposure. Serum vitamin levels, particularly retinol, are crucial for understanding the benefits and potential toxicity of retinyl palmitate in skincare products.

Though it has its benefits, there are some retinyl palmitate dangers. Studies have raised the possibility that retinyl palmitate could be making us susceptible to cancer.

The retinyl palmitate debate

In 2010, U.S. Senator Chuck Schumer called the public’s attention to retinyl palmitate safety in a government study that found that topical retinyl palmitate accelerated cancer growth in hairless mice.

In the study, which was conducted by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the National Toxicology Program (NTP), tumours and lesions grew up to 21% faster in the skin of lab animals that were coated with cream containing retinyl palmitate and exposed to sunlight than in those slathered with a control cream.

Studies have shown increased tumor development in mice treated with retinyl palmitate compared to those treated with just the carrier cream, emphasizing the potential dangers when combined with sunlight exposure.

This confirmed the results of earlier studies showing that retinyl palmitate encouraged excess skin growth and that in the presence of sunlight, the chemical formed free radicals that could damage DNA.

EWG published an analysis of raw data from the NTP website and concluded that government scientists were sitting on evidence that retinyl palmitate could be doing more harm than good.

The group considered the results troubling because, at the time, retinyl palmitate was in more than 40% of all sunscreens on the market.

So does retinyl palmitate cause cancer? The American Academy of Dermatology and the Skin Cancer Foundation both defended the use of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens. Scientists challenged EWG’s warning, saying that there was no “convincing evidence” that retinyl palmitate, as a sunscreen additive, is carcinogenic.

EWG disputed this, claiming that the commentary was “faulty” and “highly misleading,” and noting that the researchers behind it had ties to the sunscreen industry. In 2012, the NTP released a technical report affirming that retinyl palmitate hastened the growth of cancerous tumours and lesions on animals exposed to simulated sunlight.

Is retinyl palmitate safe?

The scientific jury is still out on retinyl palmitate and cancer, but that’s not the only issue with the chemical. Let’s look at retinyl palmitate toxicity.

All-trans retinoic acid, a related compound, is banned for use in cosmetics in the EU due to its potential health risks, including increased cancer risk and developmental toxicity. This highlights similar concerns about retinyl palmitate.

Vitamin A toxicity

Government officials in Germany and Norway have warned that vitamin A ingredients in makeup and personal care products could contribute to vitamin A toxicity, particularly in pregnant women and other populations at risk of overexposure. Hypervitaminosis A can lead to liver damage, osteoporosis, hair loss, skeletal defects in babies and children, and spontaneous fractures.

Certain retinol derivatives are considered anticancer agents due to their ability to influence cellular differentiation and growth suppression.

Last year, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that retinyl palmitate and other Vitamin A ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics.

However, the committee noted that in addition to Vitamin A exposure from food, “any additional source of exposure, including cosmetics products, may exceed [the recommended daily upper limit.]”

What the experts say

The FDA considers retinyl palmitate a GRAS (Generally Recognised As Safe) substance and has not limited its use in food.

The European SCCS allows the use of retinyl palmitate (with concentration limits) in personal care products and cosmetics. In Germany, the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) recommends that the concentration of Vitamin A ingredients be restricted in products for the face and hands. It also warns against the addition of Vitamin A to lip and body care products.

Health Canada allows the use of retinyl palmitate with a maximum concentration of 1.83% w/w in cosmetics and personal care products. It has, however, required a warning label on all sunscreen products containing the chemical.

The label must warn consumers that the product “may increase [their] skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly to the possibility of sunburn.” It must also advise consumers to “limit sun exposure while using product and for a week afterwards.”

EWG gave retinyl palmitate a score of 9 in its ingredient safety scale, marking it a high hazard chemical. The Cosmetics Database notes that there is concern for both reproductive and nonreproductive organ system toxicity with the chemical.

Experts have raised concerns about the cumulative effects of retinol compounds on health, particularly regarding their association with skin cancer and reproductive risks.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that retinyl palmitate is safe as a cosmetic ingredient back in 1987. It reviewed new data in 2005 and in 2013, and reaffirmed its previous conclusion.

Safety assessment and regulation

The safety of retinyl palmitate has been a topic of extensive research and debate. Various regulatory agencies, including the National Toxicology Program (NTP) and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, have assessed its safety. While some studies have raised concerns about its potential carcinogenic effects, especially when used in combination with synthetic sunlight, the majority of evidence suggests that it is safe for use in cosmetic products.

The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that retinyl palmitate is safe for use in cosmetic products, including those intended for the skin, hair, and nails. However, they recommend that manufacturers exercise caution when labeling products containing retinyl palmitate, particularly regarding the potential for skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Interestingly, the European Union has taken a more cautious approach by banning the use of retinyl palmitate in cosmetics due to concerns over its potential carcinogenicity. However, this ban only applies to products intended for use on the skin, and retinyl palmitate is still permitted in other types of cosmetic products, such as hair care items.

Decline in use of retinyl palmitate

In its sunscreen guide this year, EWG noted that the usage of retinyl palmitate in sunscreens has dropped by more than half since it released its findings about the additive seven years ago.

Monitoring serum vitamin levels can help understand the impact of reduced use of retinyl palmitate in skincare products.

In 2010, almost 40% of sunscreens the organisation reviewed contained the ingredient. This year, retinyl palmitate sunscreen made up only 14% of the products surveyed for the annual sunscreen guide.

Alternatives to retinyl palmitate

If you’re concerned about the potential risks associated with retinyl palmitate, there are several alternative ingredients that can offer similar benefits without the associated risks.

One such alternative is retinyl acetate, another derivative of vitamin A. It’s commonly used in skincare products and is considered to be safer than retinyl palmitate, making it a popular choice for products intended for sensitive skin.

Retinoic acid, the most active form of vitamin A, is often used in prescription skincare products. While it’s more effective than retinyl palmitate, it can also be more irritating to the skin, so it’s typically used under medical supervision.

Beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A found in many fruits and vegetables, is another excellent alternative. It’s considered safer than retinyl palmitate and provides antioxidant benefits to the skin.

Peptides, which are short chains of amino acids, can also be a great alternative. They help stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture, offering similar benefits to retinyl palmitate without the associated risks.

Environmental impact

The environmental impact of retinyl palmitate is not well-documented, but it is generally considered to be a relatively safe ingredient in terms of its potential effects on the environment. However, the production of retinyl palmitate can have environmental impacts, such as the use of energy and water, and the generation of waste.

Moreover, the use of retinyl palmitate in cosmetic products contributes to the overall environmental footprint of the cosmetics industry, which is significant. The production and packaging of cosmetic products can result in greenhouse gas emissions, water pollution, and waste.

To minimize the environmental impact of retinyl palmitate, manufacturers can adopt sustainable sourcing practices, reduce energy and water usage in the production process, implement recycling programs for packaging materials, and use environmentally friendly packaging. Encouraging consumers to recycle and properly dispose of packaging materials can also help reduce the environmental footprint.

By taking these steps, the cosmetics industry can help ensure that the use of retinyl palmitate and other ingredients is as environmentally friendly as possible.

So what's the best approach to retinyl palmitate?

EWG has urged regulators to consider restrictions on retinyl palmitate and asked manufacturers to voluntarily stop using the chemical. The organisation asks consumers to avoid retinyl palmitate in sunscreens, lotions, and lip products.

Studies on the link between retinyl palmitate and skin cancer remain inconclusive. However, we do know that Vitamin A and its derivatives make skin thinner and more susceptible to sun damage. Some vitamin A derivatives are considered anticancer agents due to their ability to influence cellular differentiation and growth suppression, although current evidence from large-scale trials indicates mixed outcomes regarding their therapeutic benefits. So it makes sense to just play it safe and avoid the ingredient, particularly in products you use during daytime.

This doesn’t mean you should stop using sunscreen! Just choose one without retinyl palmitate.

And, as mentioned above, retinyl palmitate is in a lot of different products. The chemical may appear in small doses, but given the number of products we use on a daily basis, those small doses can accumulate and raise our risk of cancer and other health issues.